CLICK HERE TO VISIT DUNBARTON FOR MORE INFORMATION

Home | Picking the Right Door | Manufacturers | Self Help Tips | Door Systems | Misc Info

Self –Help tips for Sliding Mirror Doors

The following article is obtained courtesy of Sliding-Door Tune up

By Josh Garskof,

This Old House magazine, July/ August 2003

You shouldn't have to muscle a Sliding Mirror Doors to get it to glide along its track. A slider should move easily enough for you to open it with one hand while balancing a round of drinks in the other. If you have a balky patio door or sliding screen that moves only when you jiggle it along the track, it's easy to get things rolling again with a quick tune-up.

Dirty rollers are the main reason Sliding Mirror Doors get stuck. " Mud, food, and hair get ground onto the track," says Joe Giagnorio, who repairs about 80 sliders a year as service manager for Ring's End Lumber in Darien, Connecticut. " All that dirt clogs the rollers underneath the door." The remedy, which he demonstrates on the following pages, takes about an hour and works for wood, vinyl, and aluminum doors. Replacement parts — for anything from a faulty latch to torn weather stripping — are available from retailers that sell new doors of the same make.

If you follow these steps and the door still doesn't slide, it may be a sign of a poor installation or an underlying structural problem, like an undersized header above the door or a rotten sill beneath it. Hire a remodeling contractor to diagnose the problem and make the necessary fixes. But if you get the old door sliding like new, it's simple to keep it that way: " Vacuum the track well whenever you clean the room," Giagnorio says.

Remove the Door

1. Lay a drop cloth on the floor and pop off the two plugs covering the roller adjustment screws at the bottom of the sliding-door frame. (These are sometimes located in the edges of the door.) Insert a flathead screwdriver into each hole and turn the screw all the way counterclockwise (above). This retracts the rollers, lowering the door.

2. Outside, set up a couple of sawhorses with pads. Take down any removable grilles, shades, or drapes. Slide the door fully open and remove the head stop by backing out its screws (above). Don't leave the door unattended without a stop, it can fall.

3. While standing inside, lean the top of the sliding-door panel toward you and lift it off the bottom track (above). Set the panel on the sawhorses. Caution: Sliding Mirror Doors are heavy. Make sure to bend your knees to take the weight off your back, or recruit a helper.

CLICK HERE TO VISIT DUNBARTON FOR MORE INFORMATION

Clean and Lubricate Tracks

1. Use a flathead screwdriver to gently pry each roller from its pocket in the bottom of the door (above). (Rollers are typically held in by friction and the weight of the door.) If they are bent or broken, replace them with new roller assemblies, which cost about $10 each.

2. Scrape any dirt from the wheels, then clean them with denatured alcohol and a rag. Lubricate only with silicone spray which doesn't hold dirt. To reinstall, align each roller's adjustment screw with its access hole and tap in the assemblies with a hammer, using a wood block to protect the wheels. Once they're seated, retract the rollers as far as possible.

3. Wipe the head track and the outside face of the removed head stop with alcohol and spray with silicone. Vacuum loose debris from the bottom track, then clean thoroughly with alcohol. The bottom track needs a more substantial lubricant than silicone rub it a few times with a block of paraffin wax.

Weatherstrip and Reinstall

1. To replace torn or cracked weather stripping where the sliding and fixed panels overlap, loosen its staples with a flathead screwdriver, then grab one end and pull it and the staples off the door, prying gently with a putty knife (above). Remove any remaining staples with pliers sink the broken ones with a hammer. The strip on the jamb side is generally glued. If it's damaged, pull it off and scrape the adhesive residue with the putty knife, taking care not to mar the finish.

2. Where the sliding panel's frame overlaps the fixed panel, orient the new weather stripping with its flap facing as indicated on the instructions. Align the top end with the shadow line of the head stop, and secure the flange tightly along the door's edge. Drill a 1/8-inch-diameter pilot hole at each of the holes in the flange and drive the screws provided (above). Do the same on the fixed panel so the two strips interlock. Glue the jamb-side strip in place with a plastic adhesive. Clean up smudges and fingerprints with alcohol.

3. Set the door back on the bottom track and tilt it up. Brace the door with your body and reattach the head stop. (Don't leave the door unattended until stop is installed.) Roll the door to within a half-inch of the latch-side jamb, then turn the roller adjustment screws until the door is parallel to the jamb (above). If the latch does not mate with its receiver on the jamb, adjust the receiver by loosening its screws and moving the plate up or down.

Hands-Free Lock

Dropping a broom handle into a sliding-door track keeps the door from opening, but it's not an ideal security device. " It looks terrible, and you have to bend down to put it in and take it out," says Joe Giagnorio. He prefers retrofitting a simple foot-operated auxiliary lock, which costs under $20.

Installation is easy. Close and latch the door, then temporarily mount the lock against its lower edge. Now lower the locking bolt and mark its location on the rail in pencil (1). Remove the lock and drill a hole (sized as specified) through the track, and pop in the rubber grommet provided. Then remount the lock and test it. Stepping on the top engages the bolt (2) pressing on the side releases it.

And what about the old broomstick? " I tell people with kids that it's just right for a game of stickball," Giagnorio says.

CLICK HERE TO VISIT DUNBARTON FOR MORE INFORMATION

Screen-Door Care

Lightweight and relatively frail, sliding screens are often the most problem-plagued component of a sliding-door assembly. While the basic maintenance steps are the same, there are a few crucial differences.

• When removing the door, move it to the center of the opening and lift it off the bottom track first. When replacing it, insert it into the bottom track last.
• Some screen rollers can't be removed they have to be cleaned and lubricated in place. Also, check the top of the screen. Some have top rollers or springs that need cleaning.
• Screens slide in a separate plastic track mounted to the top of the door frame. Make sure the track is secure if it's loose, glue it in place every 3 to 4 inches with an adhesive meant for plastic.

A badly bent or racked frame will need to be replaced. To ensure a proper fit, it's best to buy one made by the sliding glass door's manufacturer.

Projects online: repairing a slider door (Courtesy, www.creativehomeowner.com)

Level of difficulty: Easy
Estimated Project Time: 15 minutes

Whisk broom and/or vacuum
Lubricating oil
Hammer
Wood block
Level
Pry bar
Screwdriver
Wheels, as needed

Sliding glass doors are heavy, glass exterior doors that slide on rollers mounted on the bottom of the door frame. Usually, one side of the door is stationary while the other slides. Occasionally, the movable panel will become hard to pull open or closed. If that's the case, below are suggestions on how to get it back on track.

2. Straighten the Track

A bent track can also cause a door to bind. This problem can often be solved by tapping out the bend with a hammer and wooden block.

3. Adjust

  If a door is not the Wheels sliding squarely on its rollers, check to see if the door's movable sash is square with the track. If it is out of alignment, try adjusting the wheels via an adjustment screw near the bottom of the door panel.

First, unload the door's weight by lifting the door slightly with a pry bar on a wood block. (Fig. 2)

Hold or brace the door in its unloaded position then use a screwdriver to turn the adjustment screw (Fig. 3). Turn the plug's screw clockwise to raise the rollers, counterclockwise to lower them.

If a Sliding Mirror Doors still does not glide, remove it by lifting the panel straight up and edging the bottom out of the lower track. Then examine the wheels, and replace them if they are badly worn or broken.

  (Courtesy – www.ehow.com)

CLICK HERE TO VISIT DUNBARTON FOR MORE INFORMATION

Introduction

The most common problem with Sliding Mirror Doors is sticking. While that can be caused by a variety of things, it's not a difficult thing to fix. Here's a checklist.

Instructions

Difficulty: Moderate

Things You'll Need

• Denatured Alcohol
• Crevice Tool Vacuum Attachments
• Rags
• Vacuum Cleaners
• Weather Stripping
• Paraffin Waxes
• Screwdriver Sets

Steps -

1)  Check the floor track for dirt, leaves, pebbles, mildew or other junk that can obstruct the rollers. Also look for dents or dings that may cause the door to stick.

2)  Squirt a little bit of powdered graphite into the rollers.

3)  Rub a block of paraffin along the tracks.

4)  Check the alignment of the latch if it's not catching properly. Loosen the screws and align the mount with the latch.

5)  Replace the door if condensation causes fogging. It's not cost-effective in most cases to replace just the glass.

6)  Check the weather stripping. Pressure-sensitive or stick-on weather stripping can be applied around a leaky Sliding Mirror Doors.

Tips & Warnings

1)  Clean the frame with denatured alcohol on a rag before applying weather stripping.

2)  Vacuum the track periodically with a hose attachment.

3)  If the door continues to stick and jar after these steps, call a glass company to have the nylon rollers replaced.

Courtesy – ‘Home Maintenance for Dummies’ – Taking care of Sliding Mirror Doors

Did you ever reach out to open a sliding glass door, give it a tug, and feel like the door was pulling back?  Hey, Sliding Mirror Doors need love and attention too!

Unlike conventional exterior doors that swing on hinges, a sliding glass door moves on rollers.  Little wheels made of neoprene or metal that wear out with use.

Because the wheels on the bottom of a sliding glass door run in a threshold often filled with dirt and sand, it's a wonder that they last more than a year or two. If you have sliding patio doors, here's how to convert loving care into lasting quality and a door that opens and closes as easy as pie.

CLICK HERE TO VISIT DUNBARTON FOR MORE INFORMATION

Keeping it clean

First and foremost always keep the bottom track of the door clean and free of dirt and sand. In addition, regularly spray the track and the wheels with a waterless silicone spray. The absence of water in the spray reduces the chance for rusty wheels, and the silicone is a colorless lubricant that won't stain or attract dust.

Adjusting the rollers

Just like other doors in the home, a Sliding Mirror Doors can be knocked out of whack when the house shifts. Adjusting the wheels at the bottom of the door can compensate for this

problem. Raising or lowering opposing wheels (located at the underside of each end of the door) can straighten a crooked door, thus allowing it to close parallel to the doorframe. Raising both wheels evenly can prevent the bottom of the door from rubbing on the track as the wheels wear out and become smaller.

For wheels that are adjustable, simply turn the adjacent screw to make it happen. Normally, you will find a hole at each end of the bottom track of the Sliding Mirror Doors through which you can insert a screwdriver. Use a pry bar to slightly lift the door to take pressure off the wheel while you turn the adjustment screw.

If the door is lowered when you in fact wanted to raise it, simply raise the door and turn the screw in the other direction. How's that for getting the best bang for your Sliding Mirror Doors buck?

Replacing the rollers

You can replace rollers that are completely worn out (or those that can't be adjusted). Open the door about half way, raise it 1 inch by forcing it into the top track, and at the same time, pull out on the bottom. With the door out of the opening, snap the old rollers out and pop in a pair of new ones.

Courtesy – ‘Home Maintenance for Dummies’ – Preventing Condensation on Sliding Mirror Doors glass, frames, and sills

Condensation around Sliding Mirror Doors glass can result because of an air leak. Cold outside air mixes with warm inside air and creates a wet layer of condensation over the entire window. Help, you can't see! Condensation can actually form enough moisture to cause wood to rot. And don't forget mildew. Condensation is basically a feed bag for mildew. Condensation can be reduced by the following:

Sealing air leaks

Replacing single-pane glass with double-pane " insulated" glass

Using wood frame windows

Using storm windows

CLICK HERE TO VISIT DUNBARTON FOR MORE INFORMATION

If you have insulated windows and you see rainbows or condensation between the two sheets of glass, then your window has failed and should be replaced. The frame can remain, but the glass must be replaced. Here it is important to shop for the best guarantee. Where there are many who are ready to " sell to you" to get their piece of the almighty buck, there are a few who do offer a lifetime warranty.

Courtesy – ‘Slide-ezzz’ Sliding Mirror Doors repair products and Sliding Mirror Doors hardware (www.slide-ezzz.com)

The following article has been included to help the reader to develop an understanding of Sliding Mirror Doors hardware and repair kits available,

Courtesy

Sliding Mirror Doors Repair Kits - Kit Contents

      4 - 4 foot long X 7/16 inch wide, self adhering " tracking strips" ( fits doors up to 8' wide)

      2 - specially formed " corner brackets"

      6 - self adhering " shims" with peel off backing

      4 - screws to attach corner brackets

    1 - Tube of glue

CAUTION:    Kit DOES NOT FIT " U" shaped doors as you can see pictured above.  Kit is designed for doors with flat vertical door ends so " corner brackets" can be screwed onto a solid surface.  However, some doors do slide easier with just the " tracking strips" installed.

Installing the " Tracking Strips"

Note:

Before beginning, check to make sure there is enough clearance (at least 9/16 inch) at the top of the sliding door to allow it to be picked up to put pieces under.  Also make sure the area where the " tracking strips" are to be placed is at least 1/2" wide.

You do not need to remove the existing door rollers.  However, it does make installation a whole lot easier.

You may want to raise the existing Sliding Mirror Doors rollers to help with removal of door and to insure the " tracking strips" come in constant contact with the " corner brackets" .  This can be done by finding the Phillips head screw on both ends and at the bottom of the door and turning them counter-clockwise a few turns.

Use the enclosed glue to adhere the tracking strips and to glue the corner brackets to the door prior to putting the screws in them.

IMPORTANT!   THOROUGHLY CLEAN THE ENTIRE TRACK - Clean dirt & debris from the Sliding Mirror Doors track using rags, soap, water and a vacuum cleaner.  When done cleaning all the debris, wipe down door track using either denatured or isopropyl alcohol to insure all grease and oil is removed so the tracking strips have a clean surface to stick to.  This is VERY IMPORTANT!

CLICK HERE TO VISIT DUNBARTON FOR MORE INFORMATION

1) Starting at one end, put a thin bead of glue down the track approximately 1/4" away from the roller rail where the tracking strip is to be placed. 

2) Butt " tracking strip" to wall and to the roller rail as possible.  Lift door and slide " tracking strip" under the door. 

3) Press down while running fingers the length of the strip to insure proper adhesion.

If you cannot remove the door

In most cases, just lift the Sliding Mirror Doors and slide next " tracking strip" under door and attach.  You can also use a large handled screwdriver as a wedge to prop the Sliding Mirror Doors up.

4) Then, place another " tracking strip" on the other side of the roller rail and attach in the same manner.  Continue this process down the entire door track.

  5) Cut last " tracking strip" to length & adhere.

Installing the " Corner Brackets"

1) Put Sliding Mirror Doors back in frame and slide a " corner bracket" under each end of door. 

NOTE: If the " ski's" or " prongs" on the " corner brackets" are too thick , you can shave them down somewhat using a bench grinder or sandpaper without harming the performance of the product.

" Corner bracket" attaches to both corners of Sliding Mirror Doors with roller rail riding through the slot in the middle of the " corner bracket" so door rides straight.

2) Gently move Sliding Mirror Doors to see if it rides smooth and if there are any gaps at the top or bottom when closed.    If there are gaps or it still rides rough, you will need to " shim" the door.  See below:

        .                  

" Shimming" the Door

Peel off adhesive backing on " shim" (left picture) and stick to the top of the " Corner bracket" .

Be sure to stick it as close to the corner as possible and maintain the split in the corner bracket.

CLICK HERE TO VISIT DUNBARTON FOR MORE INFORMATION

Attaching the " Corner Bracket" .

Screw the " corner brackets" to the Sliding Mirror Doors. 

Use a 5/64" drill bit and drill a pilot hole as low as possible.  Put a dab of glue on the corner bracket and screw on corner bracket.

NOTE: Attach them as low as possible to keep excessive tension off of the corner of the " corner bracket" .  This helps avoid the " corner brackets" from breaking.

1)  If " tracking strips" begin to peel up due to contaminants on/in the metal:  Thoroughly re-cleaning that area and use of a decent rubber or acrylic based glue, such as Quick Grip Glue should easily re-attach the parts.  Conservative use of glue, i.e. use the least amount possible, is recommended in case you need to remove those parts for any reason in the future.

2)  It is not necessary to put " tracking strips" on both sides of roller rail.    The sliding door will still slide just fine.  The double " tracking strip" system just helps to reduce the wear & tear on just one " tracking strip" .  If you choose to use just one " tracking strip" , it is recommended that you place it on the side of the " roller rail" nearest the interior of the building and only " shim" that side of the " corner bracket" (if necessary).

3) If there is a bolt on the side of the Sliding Mirror Doors and in the way of the " corner bracket" , remove bolt from door, drill hole to counter-sink bolt, re-install bolt then install " corner bracket" .

4) If there are rounded screws in the Sliding Mirror Doors track, by holding the track to the floor, you can cut " tracking strips" before and after the screws heads.  However, make sure the head of the screws are substantially lower than height of the " tracking strips" .  If not, remove screws and replace with a flat headed screw.

5)  Lubricate using any type of silicon spray (for best results) or any other type of lubricant such as WD-40.  Sliding Mirror Doors will need to be re-lubricated every now & then for best results.

6)  Should the Sliding Mirror Doors still not slide easily, check to make sure that top of  frame attached to building is not sagging in the middle causing Sliding Mirror Doors to drag or bind.  In some cases, a drywall screw can be screwed through the frame to correct this problem.

5)  Sometimes a little lubrication along the top of the door frame also helps the door to slide more easily.

The comprehensive range of domestic door hardware and gear covers most domestic or light-use commercial sliding interior doors weighing up to 100 kg. Typical applications include cabinets, cupboards, wardrobes, interior doors and room dividers. Using sliding doors provides a practical yet stylish solution to space saving requirements. Commercial Sliding Mirror Doors hardware and folding door hardware cover straight sliding, folding and multidirectional applications using timber, aluminium and glass doors weighing up to 500 kg. Typical examples of commercial applications include offices, hotels, conference centres, retail environments and any application where performance and aesthetics are important. In such environments, the use of glass as an important design element has become widespread.

CLICK HERE TO VISIT DUNBARTON FOR MORE INFORMATION

Sliding Mirror Doors Gear (Courtesy – Henderson Sliding Mirror Doors Gear.  www.pchenderson.ie)

Established in 1921, PC  Henderson has long been acknowledged as a world leader in the design and manufacture of Sliding Gear Systems for domestic, commercial and industrial applications involving Sliding Mirror Doors.

Versatility of  application

Henderson's Sliding Gear Systems have been designed to allow not just Sliding Mirror Doors, but almost any object to slide.

Freedom in design

With the option of straight Sliding Mirror Doors, folding doors, round-the-corner or multidirectional  Sliding Mirror Doors  systems, the freedom to utilize space whilst producing designs with a difference is guaranteed.

Technical support

Henderson's fully trained Technical Sales Department can give EXPERT advice on all aspects of selection, installation, maintenance and spares provision for every type of Sliding Gear for all types of Sliding Mirror Doors.

Koblenz Sliding Mirror Doors gear – (Courtesy – ratman.co.uk)

When conceived, the aim of Koblenz’s designers was to develop a complete range of precision Sliding Mirror Doors gear that was robust enough to perform even in the most arduous conditions and have a minimal aesthetic impact on the surroundings. Components therefore had to be exceptionally strong but also compact, Sliding Mirror Doors, after all, should be unobtrusive and not bump, rock or clatter, which has oft been the traditional experience of Sliding Mirror Doors gear.

Koblenz Sliding Mirror Doors Gear is suitable for use on both Wooden and Glass door leaves and includes the acclaimed designer solution EXTeRUS.

Anodised aluminium (for EXTeRUS, stainless steel) channel provides an ideal material for cost effective track. It is both lightweight and can be extruded to create exceptionally strong profiles. The anodising process creates a self preserving protective coating, highly resistant to corrosion, peeling and cracking which can sometimes be problematic with painted finish types.

Delrin covered wheels offer high tensile strength, impact resistance and outstanding fatigue endurance. Delrin is also resistant to moisture, solvents and many other potentially damaging atmospheric chemicals. Delrin also maintains a natural lubricity at a wide end-use temperature ranges and offers good electrical insulating characteristics. The combined use of materials and design create inherent door stability and resistance to creep or warp.

The range of Koblenz Sliding Mirror Doors gear includes solutions for single, double, simultaneous and telescopic Sliding Mirror Doors. Standard Sliding Mirror Doors gear solutions are listed under each product part number, however there is a vast range of standard components that can be combined to meet almost any Sliding Mirror Doors conundrum.

Sliding wooden doors

CLICK HERE TO VISIT DUNBARTON FOR MORE INFORMATION

Koblenz Sliding Mirror Doors gear provides a wide range of options for wood, wood framed and solid core doors for different weight door leaves, different locations and varying degrees of duty.

Most systems can be either top hung from the transom or mounted to the side of the wall using optional side mounting/face fixing brackets.

Standard lengths of track are supplied which can be easily cut to suit specific on-site requirements.

Series 400 is designed for Light & Medium duty and includes K0450 which has flush mounted door brackets.

Series 500 includes options for Light, Medium and Heavy duty and has units for simultaneous, telescopic and K0600 which also incorporates flush mounted door brackets.

K0810 is for external applications and includes aluminium/stainless steel rollers.

Glass doors

The Koblenz range of Sliding Mirror Doors gear includes a number of options for frameless sliding glass doors.

Series 1700

The 1700 system uses brushed anodized aluminium hangers (clamps) which provide for an engineered finished aesthetic and is suitable for frameless glass Sliding Mirror Doors for glass panels 8–12mm thick

EXTERUS

A unique patented design, uniting the latest manufacturing technology and quality materials with fine craftsmanship and an elegant aesthetic.

EXTeRUS components are made in hand polished AISI 316 stainless steel, or Zamak Alloy, has an outstanding 150 Kg loading capability, is height adjustable and incorporates DELRIN covered roller wheels with shielded ball bearings allowing the door leaf to glide effortlessly along the track.

Benefiting from an anti-track jump security system, EXTeRUS is supplied as double leaf or single leaf set. The glass panel version it is available in two innovative bracket shapes: X and Y whilst the wooden options include X and a V door version that incorporates a concealed door mounting bracket.

Sliding Mirror Doors Hardware - Straight Sliding Systems (Courtesy – www.marvin.com)

The Straight Sliding System or " STRAIGHTAWAY" is a comprehensive range of hardware for straight Sliding Mirror Doors, constructed either in wood or metal and operating on single or double track runs.

The complete range covers all projects for Top Hung Doors in Light Industrial, Agricultural and Commercial applications. Size and load capacities range from 220 lb. doors up to 3300 lb. doors.

All standard door hangers are of steel construction with ball bearings lubricated for life. Although especially suited for exterior applications, the systems may also be used for interior use.

(Courtesy – Dunbarton Corporation / www.dunbarton.com)

Dunbarton Corporation has been in the business of producing Sliding Mirror Doors for many years and listed below are some of the Corporation’s popular line of Sliding Mirror Doors. 

• " No memory" surface wipes clean – magnetic, too!

• Durable steel surface accepts dry erase markers

• Great for child's room or family " bulletin" area

• Two (2) Panels in 4', 5' or 6' widths

• New jump-resistant bottom roller!

• Adjustable top L - Guides for greater vertical adjustment

• Easy to adjust for out of- square openings

• One piece 1-3/4" deep top track and integral fascia

• Low rise bottom track for minimal floor obstruction

• Track: Top and bottom track pre finished to match door

• Stiles/Rails: Wide variety of decorator colors

• Limited lifetime warranty

CLICK HERE TO VISIT DUNBARTON FOR MORE INFORMATION